Rainier: Fuhrer Finger

Bob Sloan and I had the intention of climbing Rainier via the Fuhrer Finger route and spending a night on the summit if conditions permitted. We also thought we might explore or even stay in the caves under the summit ice cap.

We left from the Paradise parking lot at 6:00pm on 28 May 1971, crossed the Nisqually Glacier and made camp at about 7,000 feet.

The appeal of the Fuhrer Finger route is the very direct line it takes. This direct line (approximated by the red line in the picture) makes it the shortest route to the summit. There is no great technical difficulty to the route, but its consistent 35-40° slope makes it difficult to find any places to rest or camp. It is also subject to great rockfall and avalanche danger.


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