Mixup Peak

Dave and his group woke early and left for Magic Mountain while Kathy and I relaxed in our sleeping bags. As soon as they were out of sight, Kathy and I leaped out of the tents and started for Mixup. As we approached the base of the mountain I could see the source of Dave's problem: the guide says to approach the rock at the southeast base and he had used the sun as a guide. Realizing that the rising sun stays significantly north at this time of year, I adjusted our bearings to account for this and we were soon climbing easy class 4 out of the notch and traversing to the face.

Looking across the face we saw that, although it is rather steep, it consists of what appear to be down-sloping steps with few opportunities for placing protection. The traction on the “steps” was good so we proceeded unroped up the face to the summit.

In the center background of this picture is Sahale Peak, situated north-northeast of Cascade Pass.