We made camp near Lake Ann and got an early morning start to the mountain. At the base of the Hourglass, we had to negotiate the randkluft to transition from the glacier to the rock. We then began belaying up the rock. I took an early lead and wound up at a belay spot that was barely large enough to get ½ of one boot on. Fortunately, the protection was very good and I could hang from it as I belayed Tom and Dave up. Switching leads was difficult in this cramped spot, but they finally got by, with one taking the lead and the other following once a new belay was established.

This picture shows a party of four that were ahead of us as we approached the Hourglass.