The Torment - Forbidden Traverse

We descended east along the ridge from the summit of Torment, then rappelled onto the top of the glacier. The rappel was complicated by the need to avoid the randkluft where the glacier met the mountain. Once we were on the glacier, we were able to avoid much of the exposed glacier traverse often necessary by climbing along the crest of the glacier or in the randkluft itself. At one point in this traverse, I was standing on a level spot where the glacier actually contacted the ridge underneath a cliff. As I stood at the base of the cliff, a canteloupe-sized rock embedded itself deeply into the snow three feet to my side. There were no climbers above us so the rock must have spontaneously dislodged from the cliff. I was reminded of a quote attributed to Hermann Buhl: “The rocks don't know the good climbers from the bad ones.” Unlike my experience on Mount Shuksan, I doubt my helmet would have saved me from serious harm.