Enchantment Lakes

The southwest face of Prusik Peak, as shown in this telephoto picture taken from the Gnome Tarn vantage point, is quite imposing. The exposure near the top of the southwest face is daunting and made all the more so by a slight overhang below the summit. The overhang shows as a dark area above an almost blank face.

We took the West Ridge route, as described in Selected Climbs in the Cascades v1. However, the accepted West Ridge route ultimately goes directly up from a ledge on the north side to the summit. Once we were on the ledge, we walked along it and looked down the southwest face. Peering around to the upper face I saw what appeared to be an easy way up, albeit quite exposed. There was a very solid belay position at the end of the ledge, so I had Chris belay me while I stepped around onto the southwest face and went up the slab to the summit (red line). Chris and Barb followed reluctantly, even though they were in no danger with a well-secured upper belay. There is no description of this variation in Beckey's guide or on the web; I suspect the exposure convinces others to take the more technically difficult but less exposed line.


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