We woke at 2:30am the next morning and started for the summit at 3:30am. Dave Anderson's party was ahead of us, but Tory Stevens' party took a different route from camp. The route Anderson took was up a gully above camp (the '1935' route, aka the "Gunsight”) and was recommended by Sumner and Carson. We found it unpleasant going, with verglas on the rocks interspersed with cruddy snow over rotten ice. We turned back and Anderson's party soon followed. That put us behind the two ropes in the Stevens party, who had gone to the right (the '1955' route). The ice cliffs loomed above, but at this altitude any ice fall would miss us. Things went well and we managed to pass both ropes of the Stevens party on the steep slopes going up the side of the ridge at about 11,500 feet.